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I have been living
in Italy for a month now, and everyday is still an adventure,
complete with life’s greatest lessons. This past weekend, Kelli
and I went to the laundromat; and, before our laundry was dry, I
had managed to assault a gypsy. Normally, abusing people is not a
typical pass-time of mine; but, under the circumstances, it was
necessary.
At the laundromat
we frequent, the entire front wall is glass, and everyone walking
past can view the laundry-doers. I stepped outside for a minute to
get some fresh air, and two young gypsy boys walked past, stopped,
turned around and proceeded into the laundromat. They shoved
pieces of paper into Kelli’s face; and, as one asked her several
questions in Italian (keeping her attention), I could see through
the glass that the other was unzipping Kelli’s purse. Even though
Kelli had her hands on her purse, they had a hold on her other arm
and knew exactly how to get into her purse. After a few blows, the
two boys left the laundromat, but not before giving me a lesson in
the profanity of my native language. While I admit that slapping a
gypsy may not have been the brightest idea I’ve ever produced,
Kelli was pick-pocketed two weeks ago, and someone spent around
$1,600 with her credit card; her card was protected against fraud
or theft, and her money was reimbursed by her bank, but it was
quite an ordeal, and not something that anyone should have to deal
with twice.
Kelli and I have
found a very comfortable friendship here. While I protect Kelli in
situations where she physically needs help, she tends to protect
me from my outspoken nature. It has not been easy to be an
American woman here, let alone a feminist. I am accustomed to
living in a culture where my ideas, not my body, define me. Here,
however, an American woman is a body, and her words are just
background noise. Several times, men have made derogatory comments
to me or my friends, and for a while, I was able to bite my tongue
and keep walking. Lately, however, it has become increasingly more
and more difficult for me to ignore. Usually, Kelli can sense when
I am about to erupt, and she reminds me that I am in Italy, not
the U.S.
Their comments
are, after all, harmless for the most part; and, by responding to
their often annoying and degrading comments, I might actually make
the situation more difficult for myself. When I weigh the
consequences, the choice is obvious: my safety is more important
than proving a point, and this is not my country; it is not
acceptable for me to attempt imposing my culture. After all, there
is no better or worse between the two: the cultures are simply
different, each with their own unique standards and norms. While I
do not particularly enjoy being regarded as a piece of flesh, and
while I do not understand the logic of men who continue to make
comments at women who never respond positively or at all for that
matter, the more I study the culture and history here, I can see
how these actions make sense to a Florentine.
One of my courses
this semester deals strictly with Florentine culture of the past
and present. Florence, and Italy overall, has always been a place
where beauty is more important than ethics or common sense, which
explains the ridiculous comments and the unacceptability of a rude
response. Another example: hardly anyone runs outside on the
streets here, except for Kelli and I and a few other brave souls.
It is regarded as an ugly action, and so, the only other option is
to spend a fortune on a gym membership. To me, that seems silly.
Why anyone would spend tons of money on a gym membership when it
is fifty degrees outside and perfect running weather is beyond the
realm of my understanding, but to the Italians, it doesn’t look
pretty, so running on the streets is a giant faux pas.
Other than running
on the streets, I have, for the most part, conformed to their
other cultural norms, and it hasn’t been too painful. I wear heels
most of the time, keep my sweatpants in my drawer, and put on
make-up every morning. Surprisingly, I have enjoyed stepping out
of my slob-like self for the last month, and along with my dark,
curly hair, looking presentable helps me blend in with the
Florentines. Needless to say, I can feel myself beginning to
change in several ways, and yet, I still feel as if I am the same
person. My tastes are changing, and I am becoming much more
tolerant of things I couldn’t tolerate before. I have found
strength in myself that I never imagined I could possess, and I am
completely relaxed and stress-free in Florence; yet, I am still
myself, full of emotions and opinions and dreams. I still love to
read, write and sing, and I still cry during almost every movie I
watch. So, I guess that I need to regard my changes as I do the
two cultures to which I’ve been exposed: I am no better or worse,
but a little different than I used to be, and change, while
sometimes difficult, is a good thing.
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